On the eve of a meaningful birthday, I invited three of my longtime friends over for dinner. I roasted a beef tenderloin and Chef Shannon Arant cooked mashed potatoes and green beans and onions as sides. While the meal was in process I opened a bottle of 2021 Kistler Sonoma Coast Les Noisetiers and a bottle of 2022 Aubert Sonoma Coast Powder House, both Chardonnays. Those were paired with a Brie cheese and Norman Bleu cheese. I have been enjoying Steve Kistler’s wines for years and only recently got on the Aubert mailing list. This was my first taste of Aubert. Both wines were exceptional and layered. The Aubert was slightly lighter with a hint less yellow color. I observe that the Kistler at $75-$80 a bottle was a bit more attractive than the Aubert at $100-$110 a bottle. But that’s just my opinion!
With the meal I pulled a 1985 Heitz Cellar Martha’s Vineyard Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon. The suspense of how a wine that old would endure, was paramount. The cork was a bit of an issue but came out intact with the help of a Durand (cross between an Ah So and a corkscrew). Along with the Heizt, Bobby Likis brought a 2022 50th Anniversary Caymus. Also, put into the mix was a 2009 Albatross Reserve Red Mountain Cab from Gorman Winery in Woodinville, WA. The final offering was a 2020 Mica Napa Cab, little brother of Buccella! All were opened about an hour ahead of dinner.
The wine profile of the four wines was very similar yet each wine was distinct. Some more fruited, others more structured, and all were delightfully balanced. At that level of quality, the disparity between the four was minimal. And the Heitz was the winner, primarily because it was still brilliant!
Bobby commented that he was not big fan of Caymus, and that the 40th Anniversary wine was an exception for him. Curiously, he had purchased some of the 50th. He was a fan of the 50th, as well. Asking me for my thoughts, I agreed that over the years, I did not find Caymus that overwhelming. But this bottle of 50th was exceptional.
For dessert we served plain old apple pie and paired it with a 1986 Chateau Coutet a Barsac, Premier Cru Classe! The years in the bottle caused the wine to turn from a light yellow to a deep orange color and it was a perfect pairing for the apple pie.
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